| Thread: SU CARBS mga1500 PROBLEMS |
| Posted 31 July 2003 at 20:57:45 UK time
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ED STEFFISH, CLEV.OHIO, esteffis@mony.com
Just rebuilt carbs. they jeaked and were putting out to much fuel plugs would get black sooty after a few miles. After rebuild and trying to set edle and mixture there doesn't seem to have much effect.After setting float 11.1mm as per book,i found fuel was going out the overflo,useing groose inlet valves.i put a container under the car and captured about a pint of fuel.I reset the float level a little lower,stopped the over flow.Front carb:1. Pushing up the pin to raise the damper piston ,no change at all.Hiss test with a peice of hose,very weak compared to the rear carb(i hear more engine noise than vacaum.adusting the jet nut doesn't seem to do anything .Even all the way up or 1 1/2 turns out. Rear Carb.with the pin pushed in the speed increases noticably,i turned the jet adjusting nut all the way up still runs same.However the damper pin test seems to have slowed the speed increase to where it shoud be.
I have a carb syc.tool from Moss but i can't get it to work.At about 800 rpm when placed over the carb the front one wants to stall the engine,i have backed out the center adj. of the device but it always st
alls the engine,with no reading at all.
With the syc. on the rear carb.the enjine just keeps on running,with no reading in the tube .i tried 1200 rpm and got about 1/3 of the way up the tube on the rear carb,the front one still wants to stall.
when racing the engine i would see black smoke cloud out the tail pipe,after leaning the rear carb about 3 flats from all the way up the exhaust seems a little less black but still dark. If anyone can help?? The car runs like a bear on the road.Then fouls the plugs for the next startup,one or two will not fire untill cleaned. Help!!
Ed Steffish,440-526-5175 esteffis@mony.com
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| Posted 31 July 2003 at 21:41:28 UK time
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john, Wi, jhays@clsurf.com
OK Ed, without getting too specific here's the general flow for a good rebuild and synch
1.Did you replace the main jet and needle jets? Mains are only one choice. On the needle jets a #6 is the best middle of road choice. There are richer ones and leaner ones.
2. Needle jet must be fitted with shoulder flush to surface of the piston NOT below.
3. Center the jets. Remove jet adj nut, replace main jet, push all the way up. Piston should drop with solid thunk.If not loosen jet retaining nut and drop piston until it drops cleanly. Reassemble
4. On start-up I believe 1.5 turns of jet adj nut will give you a good starting point. Screw in idle screws on linkage to get good idle-1000rpm.
5. Loosen clip which connects carbs on throttle shaft so they operate independently.
6. To adjust mixture, advance one carbs idle screw, retard the other until engine is running on ONE carb at @700-800. Remove piston dampers. Now lift the piston on carb in action, you should hear any changes in rpm quite easily. Do the same for the other carb. Key is to have only the carb your adjusting on-line, the other should be out of action.
7.Now synch air flow using your synch tool. Bring both carbs baxck in action with idle adj screws, replace dampers. Increase rpm to at least 1000 and test back and forth betwen carbs until each is flowing equally at 1000rpm. You can then adjust rpm by turning each carbs adj screw equally.
8. Reconnect throttles at clamp
In a nutshell thats the general flow Hope this helps let me know if I can help again John
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| Posted 02 August 2003 at 22:05:04 UK time
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Roger, Georgia, rnjbailey@mchsi.com
Ed, in addition to John's comments, and after you are sure that everything is initially set correctly, if you are still getting black smoke and carboned plugs, you might be having the same problem that I was. The use of the synchroniser is important, much better than the hose/ear trick, especially if the carbs are not in great shape. They are not the most user-friendly devices, and you might have to increase idle speed some to prevent stalling while you use it. I could never get the motor to run correctly by doing that piston-lifting stuff; One carb would sound as though I had it nailed, the other would never perform like the graph, and the whole thing would end up horribly rich anyway. For me, the Gunson's Colortune was a Godsend. (I found an almost new one on e-bay for $20.) Best tuning investment ever; it worked wonderfully well in setting the mixtures.
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